Arizona Trail (Mile 0 - 250)
The Arizona National Scenic Trail traverses 800 miles across the state from Mexico to Utah. I hiked the southern section (250 miles) in March of 2019 from the US-Mexico border to a small town called Oracle. It was an incredible way to spend the two weeks of 'Spring Break'. Hopefully I will return in early Spring or late Fall to continue along the trail from where I left off.
My trip started with a flight from Bellingham to Tucson. I had been in contact with one of the local 'trail angles' a couple weeks prior. The very generous stranger (a retired navy veteran) offered to support my hike by driving me from the airport directly to the southern terminus in Coronado National Forest, which saved me both financially and logistically. Thanks again JD for the warm welcome to Arizona... By afternoon that same day, I was standing at Montezuma Pass with Mexico on one side and the USA on the other.
Montezuma Pass
The Mexico-USA border
A rustic barbed wire fence at the US-Mexico border and an obelisk mark the southern terminus of the trail. The official route climbs to an altitude of 9,466 feet in the Huachuca Mountains. In mid march, a considerable amount of snow and wet weather had blanketed the trail. I deemed the alpine was not going to be a good decision and therefore starting walking along an alternate route which was an active forest service road that stays at lower elevations before rejoining the official AZT in Sunnyside Canyon. It turned out to be a very wise decision considering there had been reports of people becoming stranded and requiring SAR.
The Sonoran Desert & Mexico's San Rafael Valley
The US National Park Service conducting a prescribed burn in Coronado National Forest
The road was long and dry with US government border patrol vehicles driving the road. I met 2 other thru hikers camping near a water source. I continued until it got dark and pitched my tent in Sunnyside Canyon adjacent to the trail. Drones were flying around throughout the night patrolling the border, which was pretty crazy.
I met another thru hiker on the second day and we traversed the Canelo Hills together. Tons of wildlife thrives in the rolling grasslands of the Upper Sonoran Desert, but all I seemed to remember were the hundreds of cows.
Canelo Pass Trailhead
Water is generally unreliable throughout the national forest, but fortunately many of the creeks were flowing this time of year. Some people were still caching water at the nearby trailheads. Trail angles were also caching water for public use.
The lack of fresh water was the hazard I was most concerned about during the hike. Southern Arizona is naturally very dry, especially at low elevation, and running out of water would be dangerous. I had done what research I could prior, which included the probability of local water sources, but relying on those has flaws. I was definitely paranoid in the remote sections especially. Fortunately I always seem to err on side of cation and therefore carried much more than necessary. I don't think I ever dropped below a litre and my largest water carry was 7 litres (over 15 pounds!). There was an invaluable online hiking community in 2019 that provided up to date information on some of the water sources also.
Sonoita Creek Preserve
Meadow Valley
Down Under Tank Environmental Exclosure
Redrock Canyon (Coronado National Forest)
By this point, I was quite familiar with the routine of waking up in a new location everyday. Living in the elements for days at a time is what makes a thru hike memorable. Seeing these artifacts and learning about the history also brought excitement and curiosity to the long days. I started this expedition solo and would usually cross paths with other thru hikers daily, but those encounters were short lived and it wasn't until day 3-4 that I linked up with 2 other companions (more on this later).
Red Bank Well
The town of Patagonia seen in the distance
'Gateway communities' are small towns or larger cities that are accessible from the trail and hikers use them to resupply on food. Thru hiking is also a great way to see places one would never think to travel to. The majority of people will resupply food both in town and by mailing themselves packages through the postal service. I purchased all my food locally from these gateway communities. Many are not too far out of the way from the trail while others require an uber or hitchhike. All the people who I crossed paths with in Arizona were welcoming and supportive. The restaurant meals and hotel showers in gateway communities were much needed and equally as much appreciated.
Passage #4. From the Post Office in Patagonia the route follows Highway 82 northeast for 1/4 mile and then turns left on Temporal Canyon Road (FR 72). It follows this road up to the Walker Basin Trailhead in Walker Canyon. After passing Upper Walker Tank it crosses a saddle and then descends, working its way east into Casa Blanca Canyon. It goes by Bear Spring, crosses several drainages and then comes to the Tunnel Springs Trailhead. From here it heads east and then follows the old flume north and east up to Gardner Canyon Road.
Shipping gear home at the Patagonia post office
I got sick during the night after arriving in Patagonia and felt very low energy for the next 36 hours. The illness was either from cross contamination while filtering water or food bacteria while eating in town. Fortunately I was carrying 'peptobismal' medication to treat gastrointestinal illnesses. However I vividly remember lying on a park bench all day with little to no energy, unable to do anything besides consume the medication every hour, it was awful. I checked into a motel for the night and my stomach was starting to tolerate food again. By afternoon the following day I loaded up on fruit and electrolytes and hit the trail leaving Patagonia.
Temporal Gulch and Walker Canyon
Water source in Casa Blanca Canyon
An example of the water sources along the AZT - yuck! Bring a good filter, in addition to iodine tablets for backup for use when things are sketchy. A way to pre filter the water, in addition to a flexible cup was also very handy. You often are sharing these water sources with cows and all the other animals.
Tunnel Springs Trailhead
Utah is 731 miles away. Which means I would have hiked over 60 miles to get here.
The high point in the Santa Rita Mountains. About to cross over the saddle.
Camping near Bear Spring
I met two other hikers at this camping location near a water source. Gary was an older guy from Wisconsin with an extensive hiking experience on America's long distance trails - #RetirementDoneRight! And the other fellow Marcel was from Holland. We hiked together for the next 10 days until my flight was due home. They continued on the trail and eventually made it to the Utah border - wahoo! I called ourselves the 'MGM Grand' if you get the reference.
Passage #5 begins on Gardner Canyon Road, just west of Gardner Canyon Trailhead. The route passes the trailhead, heads over to Cave Creek, descends into Fish Canyon and then heads northwest to Kentucky Camp. See the Friends of Kentucky Camp website below for the rich history of this intriguing site along the AZT. It goes through the camp area, follows the Kentucky Camp Road and then works its way up Sucker Gulch. It goes past Granite Mountain, through Ophir Gulch and then turns on to FR 165. It descends to Enzenberg Canyon, climbs up to a road, crosses California Gulch and then crosses FR 62. After a couple of small ridges the trail reaches the upper end of Oak Tree Canyon. It follows this canyon down to a point about 3/4 mile from Highway 83.
Passage #6 begins in Oak Tree Canyon (3/4 mile west of Highway 83) on FR 4072. The trail climbs slightly up to a gate and then begins a long, gradual descent. It crosses FR 4064, passes through another gate, works its way around a small hill, and then descends into Barrel Canyon. After crossing FR 231 the trail climbs up to a gate on a pass and then drops down into Scholefield Canyon. There is another gate and a climb up past FR 4062 and on to Papago Canyon. There is a short stretch on an old two-track road and then it goes through Mulberry Canyon and heads due north, contouring up and down for several miles. After one last gate, the route is a gradual downhill for the last few miles until the end of the passage at Lakes Road.
Passage #7. From the Lakes Road the trail heads northeast past the Twin Tanks, then mostly north crossing several small roads. It turns briefly to the west and then back north again, crossing several more roads and then reaching Sahuarita Road. It loops north and then east and goes under Highway 83 at a culvert. After a short traverse across the desert it crosses the Old Sonoita Highway and then joins a two-track road. After several road junctions, including a powerline access road, it leaves the road and heads north up to Interstate 10. After going under I-10, it climbs up onto a ridgeline and follows that to the Davidson Canyon Gabe Zimmerman Trailhead.
Passage 8. From the Davidson Canyon-Gabe Zimmerman trailhead the trail drops down into Davidson Canyon, joins Cienega Creek, goes under the train trestle, and then climbs out of the canyon on the north side. After joining a two-track, the route turns sharply back to the southwest and then crosses Marsh Station Road. From here the trail heads west and then north across several drainages. It crosses a pipeline road and then goes under some powerlines. From here it climbs up to a saddle and a view of the La Posta Quemada ranch and the south end of Colossal Cave Mountain Park. The trail switchbacks down and then around the ranch to the east. It enters the park and parallels Posta Quemada Canyon past the campground and up to a park road. After crossing the road, it parallels it and then comes to the La Selvilla picnic area. From here it runs north-northwest up to Pistol Hill Road, crosses this road and then the X-9 Ranch Road, and continues up through the Rincon Valley. After passing through a gate the trail crosses Rincon Creek and then reaches a kiosk at the boundary of Saguaro National Park.
Passage #9. From the kiosk at the boundary of Saguaro National Park the trail works its way over to a gate and then north up to Hope Camp. From Hope Camp the trail heads north/northwest to the Quilter Trail junction. It follows this trail north and then east over several drainages, reaches a high saddle and then drops down to the junction with the Manning Camp Trail. From here the trail climbs steadily for several miles, passes a trail junction, and then drops down into the Grass Shack Campground. It then climbs continuously for several more miles to the northeast, passes another trail junction, crosses Chimenea Creek, and then comes to Manning Camp. From Manning Camp the trail goes through several trail junctions on the way to Mica Mountain and then it starts down the other side of the Rincon Mountains. It passes Italian Spring and begins dropping fairly steeply through an old burn area. After passing the wilderness boundary the trail works its way along a ridgeline and then descends to the Italian Trap Trailhead. From here the trail climbs steadily, turns to the west and then drops down to Redington Road.
Passage #10. From Redington Road the trail heads northeast, then turns west and then reaches the Bellota Ranch Road. Just beyond the road crossing is The Lake Trailhead. From here the route follows the Bellota Trail (#15). It crosses Caliente Creek, goes through several gates and then climbs up to the pass above Molino Basin. From an elevation of 4,860 feet the trail descends rapidly down to the Catalina Highway. After passing around the Molino Basin Campground the trail climbs steadily westward until it reaches the Gordon Hirabayashi Trailhead.
Passage #11. From the Gordon Hirabayashi Trailhead the trail heads west on a dirt road, becomes a trail then reaches the wilderness boundary. Users are reminded that FS sign standards call for minimal signs in designated Wilderness, so they should bring their own navigation aids-map, GPS, etc. Now on the Sycamore Reservoir Trail (#39), the route passes the reservoir and continues along Sycamore Canyon. It crosses the canyon and then drops down to and follows the East Fork of Sabino Canyon. The trail crosses Box Camp Canyon and then begins the long uphill along the West Fork of Sabino Canyon. It passes Hutch’s Pool and the Cathedral Rock Trail (#26) and then reaches Romero Pass. From here the trail works its way northeast up to the junction with the Wilderness of Rocks Trail (#44). It follows this trail to the east and then northeast until it reaches the Marshall Gulch Trail (#3). From here the route goes east/southeast to the Marshall Gulch Trailhead on FR 10.
Passage #12 begins at the Marshall Gulch Trailhead. The route follows FR 10 north into Summerhaven. From Summerhaven the route crosses Catalina Highway then turns left onto FR 38 (Control Road), and then continues due north and downhill on the Oracle Ridge Trail (#1). It turns east on the Cody Trail (#9) and then reaches the end of the passage at the American Flag Trailhead.
Passage #13. From the American Flag Trailhead the route proceeds in a northerly direction across USFS and AZ State Trust land, crosses Webb Road and continues through Oracle State Park which is well marked with park signage. About halfway through the park it reaches Kannally Wash and windmill. Water is available at the windmill through a spigot. Freshly constructed singletrack contours to the west and northwest until reaching a culvert under Highway 77. It passes through the culvert and continues on Old Tiger Road for the last 1.5 miles to the Tiger Mine Trailhead.
Gardner Canyon Trailhead
Now that I was no longer hiking solo, it is easier to capture pictures with people actually in them! Here is a photo of me enjoying oatmeal brunch and cold coffee.
Info sign at Cave Creek
More cows... always watching your every move
Gary and Marcel signing the Arizona Trail Association logbook
Kentucky Camp is a ghost town and former mining community in Pima Country. There was a Forest Service volunteer who offered to pack out our garbage for us. This area was also popular with day hikers.
Passage #6 begins in Oak Tree Canyon (3/4 mile west of Highway 83) on FR 4072. The trail climbs slightly up to a gate and then begins a long, gradual descent. It crosses FR 4064, passes through another gate, works its way around a small hill, and then descends into Barrel Canyon. After crossing FR 231 the trail climbs up to a gate on a pass and then drops down into Scholefield Canyon. There is another gate and a climb up past FR 4062 and on to Papago Canyon. There is a short stretch on an old two-track road and then it goes through Mulberry Canyon and heads due north, contouring up and down for several miles. After one last gate, the route is a gradual downhill for the last few miles until the end of the passage at Lakes Road.
Forest Road # 165
The Arizona Trail was my first major hike that involved navigating along various roadways and trail networks. Reaching landmarks like these were an effective way to judge your pace and confirm your location on a map. Also great excuses to take a break in a change of scenery.
Sucker Gulch
Signage indicating the AZT was very well signed. Using the GPS was still essential for points of interest. I would usually hike 20-25 miles (32-40 kilometres) each day. Elevation change and the availability of camping locations slowed and extended each day. I would wild camp every night. There was something nice about staying flexible and figuring these things out on the fly.
Barrel Canyon
Finding the first patch of flat ground late in the day, pitching your tent, eating dinner; only to wake up and continue walking the next day. #ThisIsTrailLife
Someone marking 100 miles along the AZT! I remember almost stepping on a snake right along the trail. Dude was very well camouflaged and freaked me out!
Twin Lakes
Wildflowers were in bloom
Food cache near the Old Sonoita Highway #ThanksTrailAngles
Traveling under interstate i10
Davidson Canyon Gabe Zimmerman Trailhead
From here, I got a ride into the town of Vail with a local trail runner. I quickly resupplied on groceries and bought a taco before heading back to the trailhead for the night. I swapped mobile numbers with this generous stranger and kept him updated throughout the hike!
Passage 8. From the Davidson Canyon-Gabe Zimmerman trailhead the trail drops down into Davidson Canyon, joins Cienega Creek, goes under the train trestle, and then climbs out of the canyon on the north side. After joining a two-track, the route turns sharply back to the southwest and then crosses Marsh Station Road. From here the trail heads west and then north across several drainages. It crosses a pipeline road and then goes under some powerlines. From here it climbs up to a saddle and a view of the La Posta Quemada ranch and the south end of Colossal Cave Mountain Park. The trail switchbacks down and then around the ranch to the east. It enters the park and parallels Posta Quemada Canyon past the campground and up to a park road. After crossing the road, it parallels it and then comes to the La Selvilla picnic area. From here it runs north-northwest up to Pistol Hill Road, crosses this road and then the X-9 Ranch Road, and continues up through the Rincon Valley. After passing through a gate the trail crosses Rincon Creek and then reaches a kiosk at the boundary of Saguaro National Park.
La Posta Quemada ranch
First sighting of the saguaro cactus!
Colossal Cave Mountain Park
It felt strange being back in civilization again. This was a touristy area where kids explore the nearby caves. I was much more interested in the burrito meals and cold sodas. I also found an outlet in the gift shop to charge my battery bank and sit in a chair for several hours. Gary had shipped one of his food resupply packages to this location, but the smart 'coatis' (similar to racoons) had rummaged through many of the food packages.
An information sign along Pistol Hill Road
Gary crossing Rincon Creek
Enjoying an evening glow right outside the border of Saguaro National Park
Passage #9. From the kiosk at the boundary of Saguaro National Park the trail works its way over to a gate and then north up to Hope Camp. From Hope Camp the trail heads north/northwest to the Quilter Trail junction. It follows this trail north and then east over several drainages, reaches a high saddle and then drops down to the junction with the Manning Camp Trail. From here the trail climbs steadily for several miles, passes a trail junction, and then drops down into the Grass Shack Campground. It then climbs continuously for several more miles to the northeast, passes another trail junction, crosses Chimenea Creek, and then comes to Manning Camp. From Manning Camp the trail goes through several trail junctions on the way to Mica Mountain and then it starts down the other side of the Rincon Mountains. It passes Italian Spring and begins dropping fairly steeply through an old burn area. After passing the wilderness boundary the trail works its way along a ridgeline and then descends to the Italian Trap Trailhead. From here the trail climbs steadily, turns to the west and then drops down to Redington Road.
Today was an all day uphill ascent of Mica Mountain through the national park. Unless you pre book campsites either online or over the phone, you are supposed to travel through the park in a single day and camp outside the protected area on crown land. Today was the hardest physically due to the elevation change, but also one of my favourites!
Approaching Hope Camp, the lower of the two campsite options
The sense of scale standing next to a saguaro!
Quilter Trail junction
The high point looking over the suburbs of Tucson - it was very cool realizing that I had flown here just 1 week ago and regained all the miles by hiking northbound from the Mexico border.
The high point at Manning Camp
Hiking is great for the legs but not ideal for the upper body. I didn't even dare to attempt this 65 lbs bench press found outside the Ranger cabin.
Descending the other side of Mica Mountain from the summit
Leaving the National Park boundary
Camping near the Italian Trap Trailhead. It wasn't easy finding flat ground!
Passage #10. From Redington Road the trail heads northeast, then turns west and then reaches the Bellota Ranch Road. Just beyond the road crossing is The Lake Trailhead. From here the route follows the Bellota Trail (#15). It crosses Caliente Creek, goes through several gates and then climbs up to the pass above Molino Basin. From an elevation of 4,860 feet the trail descends rapidly down to the Catalina Highway. After passing around the Molino Basin Campground the trail climbs steadily westward until it reaches the Gordon Hirabayashi Trailhead.
Approaching the next waypoint (Lake Trailhead)
Mountain bikers on the Bellota Trail
Molino Basin Pass
The high point of today was at an elevation of 4860 feet. The major road behind me (the Catalina Highway) winds all the way down to Tucson! We took a long break at this junction. Many through hikers use this road to hitchhike into Tucson for a hotel and/or resupply. It would be an efficient way to get into town (and back to the trail) if you had errands to run. The Forest Service volunteer gave us fresh water and after a long break, we continued walking the trail.
Passage #11. From the Gordon Hirabayashi Trailhead the trail heads west on a dirt road, becomes a trail then reaches the wilderness boundary. Users are reminded that FS sign standards call for minimal signs in designated Wilderness, so they should bring their own navigation aids-map, GPS, etc. Now on the Sycamore Reservoir Trail (#39), the route passes the reservoir and continues along Sycamore Canyon. It crosses the canyon and then drops down to and follows the East Fork of Sabino Canyon. The trail crosses Box Camp Canyon and then begins the long uphill along the West Fork of Sabino Canyon. It passes Hutch’s Pool and the Cathedral Rock Trail (#26) and then reaches Romero Pass. From here the trail works its way northeast up to the junction with the Wilderness of Rocks Trail (#44). It follows this trail to the east and then northeast until it reaches the Marshall Gulch Trail (#3). From here the route goes east/southeast to the Marshall Gulch Trailhead on FR 10.
Sycamore Reservoir
Posing with antlers in Sabino Canyon #trailfun
Climbing the west fork out of the canyon along the Cathedral Rock Trail
Romero Pass
An incredible campsite on bluffs overlooking Tucson
Up high in the Santa Catalina Mountains
Creek crossing at Marshall Gulch
Food resupply at the General Store in the ski resort town of Summerhaven. This gateway community serves as a resort town nearby Tucson and while the skiing may not be up to par for Canadian standards, the homemade chocolate fudge didn't disappoint. As you can see, Marcel looks pretty stoked. We also dined in at the local pub for a proper meal and daytime brews.
The Mount Lemmon Ski Hill. Lowest latitude ski resort in North America! It was a few kilometres uphill and off trail and along the highway, but well worth it.
Oracle ridge is the route leaving Summerhaven, Mt Lemmon, and the snow behind. I remember it was a long, dry, and exposed descent away from the snowy cool crisp mountain air. Gary and Marcel didn't join me on the detour to the ski resort, but I caught up and we pitched tents at one of the water sources.
Passage #13. From the American Flag Trailhead the route proceeds in a northerly direction across USFS and AZ State Trust land, crosses Webb Road and continues through Oracle State Park which is well marked with park signage. About halfway through the park it reaches Kannally Wash and windmill. Water is available at the windmill through a spigot. Freshly constructed singletrack contours to the west and northwest until reaching a culvert under Highway 77. It passes through the culvert and continues on Old Tiger Road for the last 1.5 miles to the Tiger Mine Trailhead.
200 miles (322 km) along the AZT!
Side trip to the historic Kannally Ranch. Watch out for the local cat who peed on Marcel's bag :(
Kannally Wash
Highway 77
Getting a ride into the town of Oracle from the Tiger Mine Trailhead #ThanksTrailAngels
The town of Oracle is where my story ends. What an incredible way to spend the 2 weeks of Spring break. We were blessed with an overall wet year in terms of fresh water availability. Southern Arizona would be much more challenging to go self supported in dry years. The support from trail angles was much appreciated (more than words can explain) and I plan to 'pay it forward' towards the long distance American hiking community. Seems like a pretty stellar retirement hobby.
Gary and Marcel continued their through hike all the way to the Utah border - wahoo! They said the next sections were different without me on trail. I had been following their progress and the math says they are covering more miles each day. Hopefully that is from their fitness improving as opposed to my constant array of sarcasm and bad jokes slowing them down. Formally team "MGM Grand" I suppose just "GM Grand" is more appropriate now (in case you didn't get the reference earlier).
Gary & Marcel on Day 27...